Paris couture season kicks off with frivolity, seaborne life


PARIS — Schiaparelli kicked off high fashion season Monday with loads of glamorous frivolity and exaggerated silhouettes forward of the extremely anticipated present by powerhouse Christian Dior.

Schiaparelli additionally supplied surreal takes on classics reminiscent of the Thirties heyday of home founder Elsa Schiaparelli.

The temper on the first spring-summer couture present of the season was enlivened by gold accents and complicated elaborations in entrance of a a slew of VIPs contained in the gilded atrium of the Petit Palais.

Designer Daniel Roseberry was in high kind, taking classical types and giving them sudden twists. A darkish tuxedo with stiff oversize shoulders was reworked right into a minimalist, space-age jumpsuit.

A bronze bustier reimagined as a large oyster shell rose up like a fan to obscure the mannequin’s face. Its gorgeous pearl elaborations had been rendered in natural, crystallized layers exhibiting off the deftness of the home atelier.

Myriad embellished baubles — nearly resembling moist pearls — organically dripped off a blown-up bolero jacket as if it had been created for a seaborne princess.

The gathering was additionally reverential to the home founder whose distinctive model of frivolity charmed audiences all over the world. A large lion’s head — replete with fangs and bushy mane — added a chunk to this assortment. It was enjoyable, creative and sensible — a nod to Surrealism but in addition a strong assertion about using fur.


In opposition to the grain of Paris Trend Week, which is popping its again on digital, Dutch wunderkind Iris van Herpen stated she was proud to announce that as an alternative of a standard runway present, the model “exhibits a digital presentation that enables for extra artistic freedom and storytelling.”

Van Herpen supplied an in-person presentation of her spring assortment in addition to “Carte Blanche,” a stylized video by which she teamed up with French artist Julie Gautier to discover how female magnificence can be utilized as a type of management.

A limp purple costume, with sinews revealing inches of flesh, resembled a toxic sea creature, whereas interlocking circles evoked spiky coral. Billowing blue and silver parts of beneficiant material adorned a flowing robe, harking back to the natural inspiration of the award-winning couturier who designed for such artists as Bjork.

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